Hong Kong is brilliant
in many respects, and one of those is that 6 million people can live in quite a
small area - and still leave lots of natural, unspoilt land. There are plenty of
web-sites and books describing the "walks/hikes of Hong Kong", but I want to
describe here, more the enjoyment of a lovely warm day and getting out (often
fairly quickly) of the skyscraper jungle into.... country....
Here's a map to give
you an idea of what I'll describe.... Firstly, we lived mostly in the Mid-Levels
area of the city either in Conduit or Robinson roads. This provided a
spectacular view down into the business district and across the harbour (north)
to Kowloon and beyond - but also, behind us (south) a sheer rock face of trees
and greenery. So butterflies, dragonflies, birds etc were in abundance whilst it
appeared from the northerly view that we were in the middle of a busy city -
best of both worlds!!
SoHo - The
"Blue Walk" - on the map was the least "countrified", being more of an
exercise work-out than a pleasant walk. It started with a walk (no lifts or
escalators on this walk!) down maybe 23 floors (including car parks etc..),
down onto Caine Rd, then basically down the route of the Mid-Levels Escalator -
BUT, never using the escalator - always walking down steps and steep
pavements/roads. Out onto one of the "Outlying Islands Ferry Piers" - 16
minutes. Enjoy the day there - looking back up the Peak and generally watching
the building site that was IFC (International Finance Centre), then retrace
steps (all of them ascending), back home to the apartment building - 15 minutes
AND then - walk up 17 storeys - another 9 minutes. All that you'd expect of
Hong Kong - noisy, busy, hot and lots of smells....
Bowen Road -
The Red Walk - This was along cemented tracks and regular roads, but
for the most part, no cars etc.. It was the scene of my magnificent
"Marathon"
. From Robinson Rd - walk about 1 Km, across the top of Garden Rd, along (over
the Peak Tram route) to Bowen Rd where the 4 Km walking track starts. Initially
along through apartment blocks, but quickly the road tapers down to a track
maybe 10 feet wide and only the occasional "large" house and shortly thereafter
- just the track. It hugs the cliff face hardly rising or falling, which
encourages lunch-time joggers to come up from Central and have a work out.
Large trees, waterfalls, lots of large leaved plants, creepers, birds, insects,
the hum and bustle of Central occasionally breaking through - and all the while
wonderful views down into Central, Admiralty, Wanchai, then Happy Valley - into
the Race course, and over the harbour into Kowloon etc.. Memories...
 | At around 3.5
Km there's a big waterfall and on its left amongst the trees there are 2
plaster or stone three-quarter life-size Tiger statues/ornaments.. must have
been dumped? and when you first see them (quite difficult), you think your
eyes are playing tricks. |
 | Some of the
"regulars" I used to nod/talk to including Mr Kooman - must have been 70+,
Dutch, retired from American Express |
 | At about 1Km -
the BIG house with all the cars.. couple of Rolls Royces/Bentleys + Jaguar
etc... |
 | The school kids
that used to congregate around Km 3.75 - mostly smoking and trying to look
cool. |
 | At 4Km the 2
massive apartment blocks - both 65 storeys, but additionally perched on rocky
outcrops at an elevation of about 1,000 feet. |
At around 2Kms there
was a track angling off to the right... this is the Wanchai Gap track - and it
is STEEP!! Nothing much to see except the pavement in front of your nose. Up to
the top of that and out onto Peak Rd - walking along there one day saw a small
bright green and black snake, continue on - up to Magazine Gap Road - then all
downhill back to Garden Rd and home.

Little Tai Tam to Stanley - The Purple Walk - This was a long but easy
walk which usually included a group of us and was preceded by a greasy fry-up
breakfast at around 11:00 o'clock on a Sunday morning, in the Old China Hand,
Lockhart Road, Wanchai. From there, a taxi up to the Shell Garage by the Hong
Kong Cricket/Tennis club - but this often got confusing because we called the
little reservoir up there "Little Tai Tam Reservoir" - because its next to the
Tai Tam Country Park - however the much larger Tai Tam reservoirs is where our
drivers would initially set off for (our fault) - real reservoir name is Wong
Nai Chung. The track/trail (not cemented at all, but often running alongside
drainage channels) started there (at about 200 metres elevation) and went
gently down (to 140 metres) for about 6 Kms always hugging the rock face,
sometimes being heavily overgrown - trees and shrubs meeting overhead -
providing well accepted shade. Around halfway there's the option (very daunting
to see) of continuing on the Wilson Trail up over the top of The Twins (320
metres) - Simon Walker and Fran decided to take that route one time - and they
and we have never forgotten it... we thought it was just "up and over" - and
rejoined the easy trail a few Kms further on. Not true! Its up,up... along,
down.. up, up.. along and then down, apparently very tough if all you're
expecting is a quiet Sunday walk!! The best part is to come of course... the
descent from the trail onto the main Stanley road then a quick walk down into
Stanley itself and some well earned sundowners, followed by a very enjoyable
dinner in one of the waterfront restaurants.
Lamma Island - Orange Walk - This too was combined with lots of eating
and drinking to expand the outing into a day long event, again with a group
ideally. Ideally start around 11:00 o'clock on a Saturday or Sunday - catch the
Ferry to Sok Kwu Wan (30 minutes), straight into one of the many Seafood
restaurants that line the shore there, we had favourites (Hilton and another
that I could take you to, but don't remember its name) - lots of live seafood
selecting, wine drinking and general enjoyment before a leisurely walk past the
Tin Hua Temple around the end of the inlet (Picnic Bay), over the footbridge by
some houses then after skirting the beach for a while push up and inland to the
school and village of Lo So Shing, up and behind the cement works to the
highest elevation on the walk - about 80 metres - great seascapes out to the
left (West) and quite a dramatic rocky coast. Then dropping down to Hung Shing
Yeh Beach (lovely looking) whitish sand, small, surrounded by rocks, trees,
shrubs - and a small Hotel - where... its time for a drink or two!! After that
it gets a bit "villagy", houses and roads, Police Station etc.. and you
gradually come into the back of Yung Shue Wan, where we used to seek out the
Waterfront Bar, because it was time for Sundowners

This is looking out from the balcony of the Waterfront and it makes the place
look idyllic... it wasn't that
But it
was good fun and enjoyable - for example we were sitting there one evening -
looking at that "idyllic scene" and floating in on the tide came a Samsonite
suitcase. From there it would be a short walk down Main Street towards the
Ferry, but into a restaurant on the left owned by an Aussie couple serving
mainly Fondue.. brilliant!! We'd have Cheese Fondue as a starter, then
Meat/Fish Fondue as the Main Course and Fruit Fondue as dessert... lots of Oz
wine... stagger off for the last ferry of the night - what a great day!!
High West and Victoria Peak - Rose Walk - this was my "bread and butter
walk" - did it 3 and 4 times a week sometimes. Initially set of along Conduit
Road Westwards for about 1 Km. Conduit was just about the last road up the Peak
that was cut into the rock face and ran east-west, so all along it there were
apartment blocks as with any other road in Mid-Levels, but behind the "upslope"
blocks was just bush and rock. Then where Hatton Road angles up left off
Conduit Rd - that's where the climbing starts at about 120 Metres. Up through
the few apartment blocks, onto the "Morning Trail" cemented track. Fire Station
on the right with tended garden, then up further there's a children's
playground on the left shortly followed by what appears to be a bird sanctuary,
but is shown on maps as Ching Yuen Garden. Already (after only .5 Km) the
elevation is over 200 metres and continues at that rate all the way up -
another 2 Kms. You're mostly under trees with few viewing opportunities,
although there is Lung Fu Shan Pagoda lookout at around 260 Metres and a split
in the route. Left is easier and longer - whilst taking the steps up through
the old Battery emplacements is initially steeper, then flatter, then steeper
again. Both routes merge again around 360 Metres and about .5 Kms after that
you pass some toilets on the right and emerge onto Harlech Road, which is
really just a cemented trail from the Peak Walk going to a lookout site towards
Pok Fu Lam. Continue straight across this trail, through another children's
playground towards a couple of steps down onto an uncemented trail through
trees, which after about 400 metres emerges out onto a green with old ruins and
you are faced with the start of 552 steps going up through scrubby bush to the
High West Lookout point at 500 Metres. This is a fabulous place... I've been up
there alone for an hour or more just looking at the 360 degree view, soaking up
the sun, and listening to the birds and insects. I have a series of photos
taken from there which I'll have to insert into here. One thing that always
amazed me was the waste-paper baskets at the top - who emptied them?? There is
a trail onward from this point - and I have seen lots of people take it - but
there are a few signs saying "Danger", "Trail Closed", "No climbing" - which
being alone - I thought it best to follow. Back down the 552 steps, back to the
children's playground and there are some alternatives:
 |
Back down the way you came |
 |
Around the Peak Walk (saw another small snake here one time) to The Galleria
etc.. and down The Old Peak Road... very, very steep!! but also a good
alternative route - I mean do all this backwards... Old Peak Road up, around
the Peak Walk and down the "Morning Trail" |
 |
Through the playground, onto the Peak Walk, and immediately off onto the
Governer's Walk, which is again through scrubby bush until you get to the top
of Victoria Peak then through the Garden there, down Mount Austin Road (past
the Japanese Embassy and a few apartment blocks to the Galleria and
maybe The Old Peak Road back home. |
 |
Down Harlech Road to the Pok Fu Lam Lookout point and down from there through
some very overgrown trails back to the Lung Fu Shan Pagoda and down the
Morning Trail from there , back to Conduit Road. |
Brilliant "back to nature" stuff - on Hong Kong Island!! There are hundreds
more walks on Lantau, up at Sai Kung and elsewhere, but for just coming out of
your back door - these were brilliant!!
Back to Hong Kong
|